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livelaughlove21's avatar

How can I get the most out of my piece of junk car?

Asked by livelaughlove21 (15724points) June 18th, 2013

Within the next couple of months, I will be buying a new (well, used) car and getting rid of the one I’ve been driving since 2008. I will have some money for a down payment, plus whatever I get for my current vehicle.

I drive a red 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix SE with a rear spoiler. It’s got nearly 180,000 miles on it. It runs and I’ve never had any major mechanical problems with it. It’s actually been pretty reliable. However, the windshield is cracked and I have no interest is paying $200 for a new one (insurance won’t cover it) when I’m about to get rid of it. Also, my check engine and ABS lights have been on since I got the car, though I don’t have any engine or break problems.

I’ve never been in an accident with this car, so it doesn’t have any body damage. However, it’s got some sap on the paint that will not come off. The interior is in pretty good shape. There’s a working CD player, power seats, great A/C and heat. The only window that works, however, is the driver’s side window. The rest went out one by one and I was told it would cost $150 to fix the each window, so I just got my mechanic to lock them in the up position.

I also have a small coolant leak, but I’m not sure where. It’s not coming from the radiator. My mechanic once told me where it was coming from, but the cost was a bit too much for me at the time. I only have to put antifreeze in it about once a month.

I don’t know if I feel comfortable selling this heap to someone off the street and I’m not sure anyone would even buy it. I thought about just junking it and getting scrap metal price, but that seems like a waste since it is a running car. I’m certainly not willing to put any more money into the car when I’m just going to get rid of it, and I don’t have the money to do that anyways. The other option would be to trade it in and just take whatever small amount they offer. However, do dealerships accept any trade-in, even if they have no plans to sell it? I’m sort of embarassed by it and I don’t want them to be under the impression that I’m expecting a lot in trade-in value. On the other hand, I don’t want to say, “I know it’s a piece of crap. I’ll take whatever you give me.” and get less than I would’ve gotten otherwise.

This car is my third and I’ve always paid out of pocket for my cars, so I’ve never actually been to a dealership for myself. What would be the easiest and best option for getting rid of this car and getting as much as I can out of it?

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19 Answers

jerv's avatar

I get most of my cars from people like you. Trade-in is a viable option too; they can fix it for less than they’d charge you.

Regardless, you won’t get much.

livelaughlove21's avatar

@jerv If I did try to sell it to a private party, what would I even ask for it? I mean, getting the KBB value is hard because you can’t put in “windows stuck up” and all that. If I asked $1500 but took $1000, do you think that would be reasonable? Maybe put it on Craig’s List for someone’s first junker car or something?

I mean, my first car was a 1989 Toyota Camry with no A/C and I paid $1200 for it back in 2007. My car is in much better shape that that piece of garbage.

Coloma's avatar

A $1000 for a running car, regardless of issues is reasonable. If it can be driven home and basically runs nobody can expect much more for that price. Be honest in your disclosures and take a grand for it. Good enough IMO.

Unbroken's avatar

Where I live there are car derby’s or something like that. They buy junkie cars and strip them down and race them.

Might happen where you live too.

Tropical_Willie's avatar

In my state it would not pass safety check required to get a new registration. Check engine light is a No-No for yearly inspection !
It would be a ZERO value auto.
Also my insurance company would void my insurance, if the ABS light is on or the tire pressure monitor light is on, and I had an accident.

livelaughlove21's avatar

@Tropical_Willie Really? In South Carolina, I’ve never had my car personally inspected by insurance or when registering it.

jerv's avatar

I bought my last car for $300; it needed new struts all around but was otherwise a decent car despite the mileage (220k). My current Corolla needed only minor exhaust work and cost a grand.

With the work yours requires, I think somewhere around $600–700.

@livelaughlove21 In the Northeast, yearly inspections are required before you can renew your registration. No sticker = no tabs. Even there, I bought cheap cars that required minimal work ro pass inspection though.

Tropical_Willie's avatar

@livelaughlove21 Don’t move north to the other Carolina. The insurance would be after ” I had an accident.” They would inspect the vehicle for certain pay-outs or if there was a death.
The check engine light on may mean the engine is out of spec and the OBD (on board diagnostic ) will not pass the inspection for renewal of tags.

Go trade the vehicle in for a used car or sell with an “AS IS” bill of sale, if you can do that in SC.

LuckyGuy's avatar

In NY the check engine light is an inspection stopper. When you pull the car into the garage the mechanic plugs a tester into the OBD II connector under the steering column and it reports the result immediately to NYS Dept of Motor Vehicles. They will give you a 10 day inspection sticker but if you are not inspected by then you risk a large fine if you drive it.

Unbroken's avatar

Wow, here they are asking 2000 for a car held togethe with zip ties.

Suddenly envious.

jerv's avatar

@Tropical_Willie That’s how I roll; full disclosure, as-is, and two copies of the bill of sale in case the buyer tries some shenanigans.

@LuckyGuy Same in NH, but no 10-day sticker.

CWOTUS's avatar

You can get the most out of it by… driving it until it won’t run any more. What’s wrong with that option?

livelaughlove21's avatar

@CWOTUS Yeah, because I’m the first person to want a new car before mine falls apart.

El_Cadejo's avatar

The inspection test in NJ is a total joke now. You only have to pass emissions. You can roll through there with no horn, no lights, cracked windshield but as long as you pass emissions, you’re good to go.

YARNLADY's avatar

California requires a current, valid emissions certificate. I would check the ads in the paper for similar cars and decide.

jerv's avatar

@uberbatman That’s WA as well… and any car over 25 years old (like mine) are exempt from emissions testing.

LuckyGuy's avatar

Here in NY any car 1995 and older is considered valuable since it does not have OBD II. People try to keep those cars running forever. A 1996 with an OBD II light on is only valued for parts.

livelaughlove21's avatar

Update: I placed the car on Facebook on Thursday night. I was completely honest about all of the problems and listed it for $1600, though I was willing to take as little as $1000. I got 10 calls for it in about 12 hours. I ended up selling it to a co-worker who wanted it for her 16-year-old nephew. She offered $1200, I came back at $1400, and she took it. She picked it up last night, paid in cash, and I was at the dealership with a $2000 down payment by 6PM.

Thanks for the help everyone.

YARNLADY's avatar

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