What scientific principles are at play in a wave pool?

Here is a link that describes how wave pools work.

Waves are distortions in a material that may be transverse, compression or a combination of those movements which are measured by wavelength, amplitude, velocity, and frequency. From what I know…a wave in the water is created by a disturbance such as a pebble tossed in the water, wind disturbance where the wind blowing across the surface of the water pushes the water molecules into each other which cause them to continue pushing the next water molecule on the surface creating ripples and if strong enough…waves. Then you have tsunamis that are caused by a disturbance in the earth’s crust where the sudden movement will suddenly compress the water molecules generating enormous force and energy that can create powerful tsunami waves. Wave pools then are designed with any number of “disturbance” generating mechanisms as exampled in @keobooks link.

fluid dynamics.