Question about guns and scopes?

The scope needs to be properly sighted so the line of sight and barrel converge at a certain distance. This distance can be re-set depending on what you are using the rifle for.

There’s a process of making the sight accurate for the gun. Once the scope is sighted, one can presumably hit what they’re aiming at. Some people still can’t! :D

It has to be ‘sighted in’; you shoot at a target (presumably aiming at the center!), then look & see where you are actually hitting it. Then you adjust the sight to compensate. Repeat till you’re hitting where you’re aiming. Link

the scope and the barrel converge at a certain distance but you have to make sure the scope is placed so you have the right eye relief when holding the rifle ( that your’e not scrunching up to see etc.)

Usually the sights are zeroed in to about 500 masters I think. At around 200 you’re supposed to aim about an inch or so above the target. This is for an AR. For sniper rifles it’s different.

Scopes become useless when the target is too close to make a quick shot. It is called offset. To fix this there are scope mounts that allow the shooter to look under the scope to see the iron sights. These are also useful when “co-witnessing” to check scope alignment with those iron rifle sights if there is a mishap like dropping the rifle or anything that might make one wonder if the thing is still lined up properly after an impact. It saves on ammo if you are out in the boondocks and don’t want to go through the sighting in proceedure during a hunt. Of course if your rifle has no iron sights then you might be SOL.

The scope would be “zeroed in” from a bench rest after installation. There are different procedures for various types of scope. But all involve establishing a baseline, or “zero” range. For a normal high powered rfle such as 7.62 NATO it is 100m. Once the scope is aligned at that range, you must establish the trajectory allowances or how much holdover or -under for other ranges. The best scopes are optimised for the rifle and cartridge to be used. Most will have some adjustment for elevation so your are establishing how many “clicks” over or under the zero position correspond to the true distance of the target, Some of the cheapest scopes may lack this and you must actually hold your aiming point over or under depending on range, NOTE: during the initial “sighting in” you also establish your “zero” windage or horizontal setting, which is thereafter only changed based on wind conditions.