Does anybody have any experience in growing hops?

My dad has grown hops in WI and they survive nicely in a lot of sun, climbing strings on the south side of a playhouse. It seemed to take a couple years to really get strong, but overall a hardy plant.

I used to have Cascade hops growing in my backyard here in Oregon. They smelled great. Since I moved from there, I’ve started homebrewing. Sometimes my timing isn’t great.

I have no idea how to care for them, they grew like a weed in the sun in Oregon.

Thanks guys. @Mamradpivo Yes, I love the smell of Cascade hops. Especially in my beer.

I noticed they tend to take over pretty quickly because they just plain out grow everything – try to keep ‘em contained by growing them up lines. They used to reach out and wrap around the mirrors of my car overnight. It was actually kinda creepy.

@JeanPaulSartre Thanks. I was going to put them away from the rest of the veggie garden.

Skippy’s mother?

Is that code? I grew some and when they were old enough we cut them down and smoked them…

@davidbetterman Not code. I brew beer, and I’m interested in growing hops for my beer.

Oh…Here is an interesting site on growing your own hops.

You need to know what kind of beer you intend to brew, as hops differ from ales to lagers to…well, you catch my drift.

@davidbetterman Thanks! No, I know exactly what kind of beer I want to brew, and the hops I need.

I grow hops… I have 2 Chinook bines and 2 Cascade plants growing in Eastern Massachusetts. I’d advise ordering your rhizomes from freshops.com, that’s where I got mine and I was very happy with the results. There is also a good tutorial on the site.

The big things are to fertilize, give them lots of water and all the sun that is possible.

1) Before you plant the rhizomes, dig much deeper (I did 4 feet down, but I think that was overkill) and put in a blend of compost, fertilizer and good soil. As the plant puts down roots, which is will quickly, it’ll hit this nutrition which will help it to grow better. After it’s buried, put compost and fertilizer on top and get it very wet. Also, make sure you have decent drainage. You want to provide it a lot of water, but you don’t want to drown it. You’ll want to do all of this after the threat of frost is gone.

2) Ensure that you plant it in the sunniest place you can. I have seen very varied results over a difference of just 12 feet because of a difference in shade.

3) Set up a strong trellis or support structure right away. I have 4“x4” beams going 16’ high with a cross beam that lowers so I can pick the hops easier. I also have each bine on an individual rope so I can lower them independently. I used to have a PVC structure, but the hops pulled it down in the 2nd year. They weigh A LOT and I wasn’t even at full crop yet. If you have to set up the support structure after a season or 2, you will do root damage digging the anchors in for the support.

4) Water them every day. Unless it rains really hard, water them. Try not to get the leaves wet when you water them, as this can promote diseases & pests in the hops.

5) Strip the leaves from the bottom 1’-2’. This will deter pests.

6) After the hops start to grow, select 3–6 bines from each base plant to run up the lines. I have 4 plans that run up 8 lines. I run 3 bines up each line.

You can’t count on a lot of hops in the first season. I got a few ounces wet, maybe 3 dry. Second season I got 5 lbs wet. Third season should have been good, but I did some damage creating a new support structure and delaying their growth because they had nothing to grow on. This year should be epic. That said, if you take good care, give them a lot of sun and nutrient, you should have enough wet hops for aroma/flavor additions and possibly dry hopping this year. Order your rhizomes soon, though. Hope that helps, let me know if you want more details.

Basic requirements:

- Vertical space is needed (climbers) 12 to 20 or more feet high

- Soil ph of 6 – 8 (neutral) and well drained, formed into mounds

- Hop rhizomes planted 1 – 4 inches deep – buds up. 3 to 5 feet apart (5 for different varieties)

- Requires frequent watering the first year (mulch will help)

- Anchor ropes from the ground to at least 12 feet tall, 20 feet is better (poles, building, trees…) – rig with the ability to lower the ropes to the ground – no ladder needed for harvesting.

- Train the hop bines counter-clockwise up the rope for northern hemisphere – opposite for southern hemisphere.

- Harvest August – September when hop cones are papery dry.

- Use as wet hop or dry and vacuum seal and store in the freezer.

- Once hop bines are dead, cut to ground level and mulch over till spring.

- Subsequent years require containing the hop plant/crown/root stock by digging a circle around the crown and remove the lateral running rhizomes (that’s how they spread) from where you don’t want them to grow. You can plant these rhizomes elsewhere, give them to friends, sell them, trade them with other hop growers in your area…

I chronicled the entire process on my blog about growing hops. From soil preparation to planting hop rhizomes to trellising, harvesting, drying and over-winter protection.

@growinghops Thanks for your help.