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What scientific principles are at play in a wave pool?

Asked by metadog (378points) September 2nd, 2015

For example, Disney’s Typhoon Lagoon makes it’s waves by dumping out massive water “buckets” simultaneously. But then the shape and depth and volume of the pool come to play, along with the volume of water, to determine wave size, length and even angle. To boil it down to basic scientific principles… Gravity? Physics? What else?

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