What is modern life like in Ireland?

A couple weeks ago, as a side story to the whole “Brexit” vote, I found out that because my grandfather was born in Ireland, I am eligible for listing in Irelands’ foreign birth registry, which could lead to an Irish passport and possibly to citizenship.

Through my family, I’ve heard tales of the Emerald Isle, and growing up, I learned a lot of wistful songs about the things that were missed by the immigrants.

I’m wondering what I can expect in modern-day Ireland, either as a visitor or a US expatriate.