There are voltage adapters which enable use of American devices in Europe, but are there also ones that enable their devices to be used in the USA?

Right here:

http://www.amazon.com/European-American-Outlet-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0037AGZIG/ref=pd_sim_bt_4

Yes, they exist. Not only due to voltage, but because plug/outlet configuration is different. In fact, I’m using one right now. My iPad was purchased in the UK, and and I’m using it here in the US.

So, where to pick up an adapter plug? Any store that sells travel supplies should carry them. Electronics stores, like Radio Shack should as well. I never fail to see them being sold at airports. Prices can vary, but I’d say that they fall on the cheap side, except at airports.

This converter will go either way. The device does matter. The one I linked to can handle up to 750 watts, which is less than most blow dryers, but more than most immersion blenders (these tend to be around 500 watts).

To be a little more clear on the topic – though I am by no means an expert on electricity (only some of the machines used to produce it) – I don’t think there are “voltage adapters”, per se.

That is, you don’t “adapt” voltage. Either a device can function with a particular voltage, such as 110V AC or 220V AC (or DC, or higher or lower), or it can’t. If it can’t function at the particular voltage, then it will either do nothing or it will destroy itself.

What you want to look for is the “operating input voltage range” for the device. Handling different voltages is accomplished by means of a transformer. Transformers are used to “step up” or “step down” power inputs to a voltage and current that the device can use. They also work to invert power from AC to DC or vice versa, depending on the needs of the device.

For an example, if you have a laptop computer these days, you have a “brick” with a power cord. That “brick” is a transformer. If you look on its back (where you probably never looked before) you’ll see that it’s built to have voltage inputs of 110 VAC to 220 VAC (notebook computers being used all over the world these days, the manufacturers have finally wised up to produce universal transformers). But it also converts that input voltage into something like 19.5V DC.

So the short answer to this question is: look at the stickers and instruction manuals for each device you intend to use. If your device won’t handle the local current where you’re going, then consider leaving it behind, lugging your own transformer (they can be heavy), or asking your host to provide one.

I have an awesome adapter that will plug into UK, USA, European, and Australian sockets, and you can use it with any of those plugs OR a USB cable. I love the hell out of that thing. I bought it on a ferry between Ireland and England. It was just under 30 GBP.

Well thanks to all of you, I now have a clearer idea of what I’m dealing with.

The appliance I’m considering is a Braun multi purpose stick blender/food processor and it’s 600 W.

There just isn’t one American made one that can hold a candle to it in terms of reliability and versatility but unfortunately they are no longer making them for sale to US markets.

That’s the only reason I would consider a 220v device at all. So I’m still mulling all this over…

But thanks to your info, I have a much clearer idea of what it is that I’m mulling about :)

@CWOTUS

Would the thing that @thorninmud linked to provide a workable long term solution or would anything additional be required ?

Just to clarify, I’m in the USA and all this will be sitting on my kitchen counter so I don’t have to worry about travel.

It took me a while to review some of the other responses. Yes, @thorninmud gave you an excellent answer. That response recognizes the difference between “plug adapters” which are not the full answer to this problem, and a transformer, which will convert the power inputs into something that your device can handle.

Keep in mind that aside from the not insignificant cost, that’s a heavy item to carry around in a suitcase. Someone else may offer “plug adapters” which are a lot cheaper and easier to carry… and will allow you to burn up your razor if you plug a razor requiring 110V AC into 220V AC, as is common in much of the rest of the world. (Alternatively, if you plug the 220V device into 110V then it will run slowly – if it runs at all – and burn up slower.)

A lot of “rechargeable” devices (of which laptop computers are one example) are set to handle the full range of 110 – 220V. Look at the label or the instructions.

@Buttonstc Theoretically, you would need a slightly larger-capacity model than the one I linked. It is rated for 750 watts, true, but motorized devices like your blender will use more than their nominal voltage at start-up (and maybe when you’re working it hard). The manufacturer recommends that you get a converter rated for 1.5 times the nominal power of the appliance. So the above model could handle a 500 watt blender, but at 600 watts you’d need more like 900 watts of capacity. The same manufacturer makes this model rated for 1000 watts.

Upon further research, I’ve realized that the model which can utilize the full extent of all the options available (everything from making frozen smoothies to slicing and dicing as well as making pizza dough and much more; so EVERYTHING is no exaggeration) is the latest iteration which is the rechargeable one.

So since it will not be drawing the power directly, would that make a difference in adapter requirements?

Also, I’m not traveling with it at all. It will be in my kitchen only.

I’ll try to find a link to post to the specific model in action once I get back on my tablet. I’ll cross my fingers and hope that it displays the YouTube URL correctly for desktops. I’ve had inconsistent results because sometimes YT insists on embedding code for mobile which screws things up. But at least it’s worth a try.

Once you see this thing in action you’ll realize why I’m making the effort to accomodate 220 v.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9GhLfDBP5c
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8e0Mxr1AwM&feature=relmfu
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zp4J2i8Dilg&feature=BFp&list=WL458DE2499FA206B5

If you have your heart set on the blender, and it truly is a 220 V machine, then you can always have an electrician (or someone else who really knows what he’s doing) wire a (or “another”) 220V outlet in your kitchen. Most kitchens are wired to accommodate an electric stove / range / oven, and every electric stove I’ve ever seen operates on 220 V. (So do some air conditioners and most electric clothes driers.) So the wiring is already there, and you could probably wire it on the same circuit as the stove, since I don’t think the current draw will trip the circuit even if both appliances are running simultaneously.

Talk to an electrician; having an additional outlet placed at counter height shouldn’t be very expensive if it can be done from the stove circuit, and only a bit higher if a new breaker has to be installed and wiring run from the breaker panel to the kitchen.

Otherwise, consult the manual to see if the recharger will work with 110V power. (You probably would need an adapter plug in that case, since a 220V plug will not fit a 110V outlet in the USA.)

Ah, I have one of these, great bit of kit!

Right, American, you have 4 options:

1. You get one of the standard plug-in Brauns; you can adapt a household socket from NA to EU standard (flat pin—>round pin or British), but it will run very weedily, as the voltage (and so the power) will be half the intended. If you were to do this, you may as well just change the plug-top permanently. No point having a half-powered Braun really though, is there?

2. To change the actual voltage, you can buy a transformer to plug in in your kitchen (like @thorninmud says), but that is fucking ridiculous.

3. You can wire a new circuit or spur for a 220V supply to your kitchen (as @CWOTUS says). US houses need ‘special’ separate circuits for 220V supplies, but this is routine and possible in all households. You have two-phase supplies in US household, I think you use a different sort of plug top, wire in twin-and-earth, with the conductors connected across the phases. I’ve never done any work in America though, so I can’t help you any further here, you’d have to see an electrician, which would be pretty dear for what you’re getting.

4. Buy the ‘wireless’ one. It has a battery, which will always provide the same power to your tool, so you will definitely get full power. The power supply for the wireless model runs through a dual-voltage (110~240V) battery charger, which will work perfectly fine with a standard 120V socket in your American home. You will still need to change the plug-top, or use a plug-top adaptor (standard travel-adaptor, like @Skaggfacemutt says).

Personally, I’d recommend the wireless option, just change the plug-top. Cheaper than getting a sparky in, and much less ridiculous than having a 1000W transformer sitting on your worktop.